Getaway from Paradise

Although we live on Paros, the Greek island with something for everyone, on occasion we explore other areas of Greece. This April we decided on the nearby island of Syros. It was a blustery day yet an easy crossing with the wind at our backs. We relaxed on the ferry and watched Paros recede into the past and Syros appear in our future!

Syros is not known for tourism; its beaches are inconsequential. As the seat of government for the Cyclades, most people who travel there are either going for permits or some legal action. Its hospital is the regional center when your own island clinic cannot accommodate your medical needs. The port is very active with large ship repair dry docks and yards for building and repairing seagoing vessels.

When going to Athens I have often been in the port of Syros and gone on deck to see the city, but up to now never set foot on land. When any ferry touches here, men in white jackets, trousers and hats carrying large baskets scamper on board. Apparently they have permission to quickly sell the sweets called Loukoumia (nougats with various flavors such as mastic, almond or chocolate). It is complete chaos when they nearly run through shouting their wares and prices, flinging nougats into outreached hands and taking money. All this turmoil while people and cars are unloading and loading in about 15 minutes! A real Greek scene!

Those few times of observing this city made me want to come here. I call it a city, but it really is just a big town called Hermoupolis. Starting on flat land at the port, it immediately goes up and divides itself into two hills, each with a church on top, one Catholic and one Greek Orthodox. This island is very unusual in Greece in that it has an almost equal mix of Catholic and Orthodox. So, you can imagine my delight to actually step off the ferry, and know that for the next 30 some hours I would be able to go to those lovely churches on the hills and buy nougats from shops at my own pace.

When we arrived it was late afternoon, around 5:30. On the internet I had found a well located hotel and had a lovely response from the owner, Giorgios. He kindly gave us his “best room” at a cheaper price, even with Easter only four days away and visitors were arriving. (This is a very busy time on all islands; Easter being as big here as Christmas in America.) Anyway, we were pleased with the room; the view was over the harbor and the two hills. I might add, Hermoupolis is definitely a town of steps, maybe millions of them. As I mentioned, it goes uphill from the port; walking everywhere was definitely going to be a tiring challenge!

We immediately left the hotel to find a restaurant, wanting to “discover” some of the city on our way. Which we certainly did. First was a lovely Greek church with beautiful stain glass windows. We arrived just in time in the fading twilight to see its distinctive pebbled forecourts. The designs were very intricate done only in white and black pebbles.

From there we walked downhill into the main square called Miaouli. This is the center of the town. On one side is the magnificent Town Hall, next to it a theater which they say is styled like La Scala in Italy. There is a band stand, and other older stone buildings which now house the telephone company and museums. This is a fantastic place to watch people all hours of the day. But now we were looking for a restaurant for dinner, we hurried through, and ended up among the many side streets and alleys. This area has wonderful shops of all kinds, small fruit and vegetable market stalls, and fascinating little restaurants.

Now I must say that this was the start of realizing that Syros was truly a change from Paros. The architecture is obviously different, but a more subtle variation to me was the food! The menus offered items we do not get on Paros; it seemed more cosmopolitan. The restaurant staff seemed more professional; people were dressed more stylishly. Coming from such a small tourist island, these differences almost shouted at me. I felt as if I was in a mini Athens or somewhere else on mainland Greece. It just did not feel Cycladic. We enjoyed our meal very much and I was so impressed with the house wine that I bought a liter and a half poured into a water bottle by the owner!

The next day we started with breakfast on the harbor side in a lovely coffee house where we mapped out our plans for the day. We would take a taxi to the top of the tallest hill where the Catholic church was and walk back down. This region is called Ano Syros which means “over Syros”. This area dates back to Byzantine times; it is a maze of narrow, steep alleys. The walk to the church was not far from the taxi drop off and very worth seeing. Most large churches and certainly cathedrals are impressive, but this one housed a painting of the most beautiful Virgin Mary that I have ever seen. The view from the courtyard was outstanding, looking out at sea, viewing the city below and the valley beyond. One felt “half-way to heaven”!

The walk down took us past some museums (closed) and interesting houses. We had heard there were caf’s and tavernas on the hill side and we were definitely seeking one–the weather was hot! One taverna we were seeking was called Fragosyriani. The father of rebetika music, Markos Vamvakaris, was born in a house next to this taverna in 1905. (Rebetika is folk music popular in the 1950’s – 70’s which told of Greek problems and was often not appreciated by the government). From there it was continuous steps down, down, down, until we were at the edge of the main town. A short walk brought us to Miaoulis Square where we badly needed a drink and lunch. While resting we people-watched. Both Michael and I decided that people here had more money, were smartly dressed, and seemed to be workers and locals, as opposed to tourists.

After our break we started walking again. This time out along the seafront above some cliffs in an area known as Vaporia which is full of old Venetian mansions! These mansions have now been turned into homes for the aged, schools and here and there, one is still lived in. These lovely homes also saw the Russian and Turkish invasions and eventually went into decline. It is only recently that they were brought back to their splendor and many of them are still in different stages of disrepair. I thought it seemed a good place for a Halloween Haunted House stroll.

Syros changed the most due to the War of Independence around 1821. Greek islanders near Turkey found themselves needing protection and ended up coming here to live. They brought with them many skills that helped make this island what it is today including boat building which turned Syros into the largest shipping port in all of Greece at that time. Banks and schools were built and cultural events from outside Greece started appearing. The first postcards in all of Greece were made here as well as playing cards. All this meant commerce and forward thinking people. They did not need tourism to survive. What I found amazing is that in the town I found only two shops displaying postcards and anything in the way of tourist paraphernalia!

But tourists are slowly finding this island. They speak of it as the Real Greek Island! Outlying villages with any beach at all are now building a few hotels and promoting themselves. By the way, Syros is one of eight places in all of Greece for a Casino! I am looking forward to returning, on my scooter this time, taking the back roads over remote hillsides, finding quiet little villages where shepherds still watch their sheep and goats and grow vegetable gardens to sell in the big city of Hermoupolis! I will discover a people living a life that is still hard work, but has its own sense of peace. Syros, the Real Greek Island.

Written by Karin Shepherd